Brief
update from Chris Vernon
Chris
Vernon, a V8 member, is driving his Midget "Dorothy"
to South Africa with Roy Laycock in his Midget, "Bridget"
- here Chris sends a third report on progress.
See
the other reports. More
Posted: 031011
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Chris
Vernon has sent a further brief report saying "Thanks
for the report on the V8 website. Yesterday had
a bit of hairy ride through Syria all in one day.
We are now in Jordan for a couple of days before
going to Egypt. With fuel at 60p litre even a V8
would be OK here! - except for the heat. Will do
a bit on the Syria run when I get a moment." |
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Chris
Vernon's hairy report on his journey through Syria mentioned
briefly in the NEWS item above
Received on 181011
I thought you would like to hear the story of our day in Syria.
I am sorry if it sounds rather serious but it was! In view of
the troubles in that country our plan was to cross in one day
with enough fuel on board so as not to have to rely on local
supplies.
We left Antakya at dawn having fiddled with Dorothy's carbs
to get her going, not a good start to a 400 mile journey. It
was very cold as we drove out of town through a very poor village
with bad roads, sheep and people laying out their produce on
blankets, not an aspect of Turkey we had seen before. The main
road to the border climbed up into the hills past ruined buildings
and barbed wire fences. There was a refugee camp run by the
Red Crescent with rows of bell tents and a children's playground.
We then came across a line of trucks a mile long waiting at
the border. We drove past them as there were no cars crossing
- hmm.
We spent
an hour going back and forth to get the right stamps to exit
Turkey, then we came to the Syrian side where the fun started.
We were met by a very nice man from the Tourist Police who spoke
English. He said "we get very few tourists these days and
now two in one day" - this was Mr Fixit. We will need US$70
changed into Syrian pounds, I had only 80 but that will do.
Anyway it all seemed to go on various permits and insurance
as we went to see his friends in various departments. We made
our first use of our carnets, the document from the RAC allowing
import and export of the cars. At the end he took us into his
office as there is a small matter of bakshish for the customs
so they do not search you and send you back for more stamps.
As for him, what you like. A few dollars lighter and we were
free to go. It was now after 10am and we had done about 50 miles.
We took the road south to Idlib to avoid Allepo and to join
the motorway, that's what it was called on the map but hardly
the M1. We were bowling along nicely on a cool morning with
lots of trucks and a few cars when we noticed long queues at
petrol stations, glad we have our own supplies. At Hama we met
our first soldiers, five young men with guns blocked the road,
what now? So with a big smile and my best "Good Morning"
to the one in charge - well he was the only one with a helmet
- and he said in perfect English "Welcome to Syria".
That's good I thought when I read him the page from my passport
saying "Her Britannic Majesty commands . . . without let
or hindrance etc" hoping he will understand. Anyway we
were waved through.
The road suddenly became very empty and we soon found out why.
Ten miles down the road another road block by soldiers, police
and traffic cops. Much looking at passports by all departments
until a middle aged officer appeared to take charge, in reasonable
English he explained that the road ahead was cut - drawing his
finger menacingly across his throat. This was not surprising
as we were approaching Ar Rastan which the BBC had reported
as the scene of heavy fighting in the last five days. We were
turned around and had to return up 10 miles of empty motorway
to take a diversion east to Salamiyah before going SW and back
on the main road. This diversion was full of trucks nose to
tail all trying to overtake us and others on the wrong side
of a narrow dusty road, very scary in our tiny cars. As we approached
Homs there were more soldiers, but none stopping us and the
odd tank and armoured personnel carriers. Roy said they were
Russian made but we did not stop to ask. Other than that life
seemed to be carrying on as normal with families going about
as usual. Once south of Homs we were half way and we had already
lost a lot of time. Damascus was our next target and although
traffic was heavy there was no more signs of the military except
for trucks of soldiers who enjoyed seeing our two cars. Everyone
shouts "Welcome to Syria, you are most welcome" -
they must be taught it at school.
South of Damascus was now time for a pitstop so we pulled off
onto a dusty forecourt of nothing. We had each brought two jerrycans
of fuel with 15 litres in each. Our stop was less Maclaren more
Fred Karno. We had to unstrap the cans, unlock the bicycle chains
fixing them to the bootracks and then refuel. I had lost the
gasket to the filler in the depths of the boot but Roy had two
spouts one of which refused to let fuel through. By this time
we were surrounded by an Arab family all keen to help. Anything
you put down, sunglasses, filler cap with keys in, they would
pick up, not menacingly but it did prolong the operation. One
and a half cans went into each car which should enable us to
reach the border with some in reserve. Politely refusing offers
of food from the family and we were back on the road.
A couple of miles down the road Dorothy died again,so we had
to stop, let her cool down and fiddle with connections. More
time had been lost but she was not to trouble us again that
day. We were now crossing a dry desert area and the sun was
sinking fast to our right. Roy was worried about his fuel level
(his tank holds one gallon less than mine). We wanted to make
the border before it closed for the night so we pressed on as
fast as we could. We were much relieved to to see the post at
Jabir still open but we still had to do the paperwork. Once
again we visited the various departments, signing off our carnets,
passports customs. At the very end I needed 500 Syrian pounds
for my 'ticket' but I only had 200 so it was off into the night
to find a bank or moneychanger. The smallest note of hard currency
I had was a 10 Euro which bought 850 Syrian pounds and I was
back for my ticket - I still do not know what it was for - but
we were out.
It was now 7.30pm and pitch dark and we were tired and hungry
but still in no-man's land. Roy spotted the Taj Hotel (yes that
group) so hang the expense and we checked in. It turned out
to be only US$28 for the night, obviously a fortune in Syria.
We were still technically in Syria but we had done it in a day!
I hope you have enjoyed this story - sorry about the typos.
To all of you who doubted we would get through, you know who
you are, go on to the just giving website and donate a minimum
of £10 to CoCo. One kind soul has already given £200
for our safe deliverance.
To be continued . . . . . .
Posted 181011 |
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